Vinmagasinet er på gaden med test af 108 champagner
12. dec 2007 21:24, Else
I dag udkom Vinmagasinet med en test af ikke færre end 108 champagner. Jeg var inviteret med som gæstesmager, og det var jo et drømmejob at få lov at smage så mange vine op mod hinanden, men faktisk også benhårdt arbejde, som kræver stor koncentration for at holde sanserne skarpe.
Hvis budgettet ikke rækker til at investere 50 kroner i egen kopi af Vinmagasinet denne måned, eller magasinet er udsolgt hos din lokale bladpusher, får du her mine smagenoter på de fem champagne, jeg foretrak, af de 21 jeg bedømte. Pointskalaen gik fra 1 til 6 med 6 som max.
6
Favorit: Paul Berthelot Millésime 1999
Med en kølig næse af citrus og mint og en stimulerende syre har vi her fat i en champagne, er klasser over, hvad der kitchede etiket indikerer – trods den aggressive mousse. Mød en vin med rank ryg og en yndefyld, åleslank krop, der er den perfekte værtinde til at byde gæsterne velkommen.
Chardonnay og Pinot Noir
275 kr. Vinotinto
6
Tarlant á Oeuilly Brut Zero
Den er akkurat så knasttør, crispy og håndkantslagshård, som navnet antyder. Modsat de fleste champagne, som er tilsat en dosage af sukkeropløsning, er tilsætning her zero. Næsen er mindre charmerende, næsten svovlet, men smagen er lang og ren. En harmonisk vin, man har råd til at blive glad for.
33 % Chardonnay, 33 % Pinot Noir, 33 & Pinot Meunier
190 kr. Hoffmeyer-Lippert
5
Jean Vesselle Oeil de Pedrix
På trods af den sarte rosa farve, er agerhønens øje ingen tøsevin. Den har en aggressiv mousse og toner af først rød frugt og siden ristet rugbrød i slutningen, pæn syre og en fylde i munden, som kalder på mad. Et interessant pinot noir-baseret bekendtskab på grænsen mellem hvid og rosé.
Pinot Noir
265 kr. Østjysk Vinforsyning
5
Bollinger La Grande Année 1999
Delikat duft af morgenfruer og makroner. Mineralsk elegance og hestekræfter i bedste Bond-blanding af med Pinot Noir i førersædet. Den vinøse fylde og maskuline struktur klæder et veldækket bord og fortjener en en forvænt gane.
30% Chardonnay, 70% Pinot Noir.
95% stammer fra Grand Cru og 1. Cru-marker
850 kr. Phillipson Wine
4
Duval-Leroy Fleur de Champagne Premier Cru
Passionfrugt og liflig citruskilden i næsen. Moussen bruser lidt op i munden, men vinen har en delikat syre med formildende sødme i pæn harmoni med rank ryg og medium fylde. En vin, du får lyst til at drikke en hel flaske af på tom mave og forelske dig verden.
25 % Chardonnay, 75 % Pinot Noir
295 kr. Vinens Verden
Om at smage
Man kan diskurere, hvorvidt det giver mening at fem mennesker på en eftermiddag smager 108 champagner, som både skal hentes åbnes, bedømmes og beskrives - eller om man skal sortere lidt ud i feltet på forhånd.
Personligt synes jeg ikke det er ideelt at smage brut champagner i samme pulje som demi sec, hvide som røde og vintage mellem non-vintage.
Jeg foretrækker også at smage blindt, fordi det åbner sanserne, når der ikke kan være eventuelle forudindtagelser eller fordomme til at blokere eller spore smagsløg og næse i en bestemt rækkefølge.
Men at sidde sammen med en flok vinnøder, som er garvede smagere, begavede, behagelige og muntre folk og kunne udveksle smagsindtryk og præferencer med mennesker, der er lige så entusiastiske som man selv er, er fantastisk sjovt og lærerigt.
Jeg behøver vel ikke tilføje, at sjatpartyet bagefter ikke var et af de ringeste ;-)
Foruden den store test indholder Vinmagasinet denne måned en del artikler om champagne:
Syditalienske luksusbobler: John Iversen og Ib Sørensen har skrevet om den franske champagnemager Anselme Selosse og den italienske ønolog Cotarella, som arbejder sammen om at skabe udfordrende bobler af syditaliensk vin
Champagnesalget er eksploderet: Kenny Pellegrino analyserer situationen og fortæller om, hvordan regionen tackler efterspørgslen
Richard Juhlin fortæller om kunsten af smage: Jeg skrev interviewet, da jeg mødte Champagnens svar på Bjørn Borg i begyndelsen af januar. Du kan læse interviewet i sin helhed på www.aok.dk
Gør-det-selv-champagnesmagning: Min praktiske guide til hvordan du laver en proff smagning hjemme hos dig selv, som du også kan læse her på bloggen .
Champagne 1996 Top 20 Min reportage fra smagningen på Noma i november, som også ligger her på bloggen
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